OUR SOJOURN IN KASHMIR-MARCH/APRIL2022

The idea of visiting Kashmir was as novel as it was timely. My grandson Raihan was about to enter the portals of an American university in autumn. He had never visited the valley which is often called the Switzerland of India.  Ironically, he had visited Switzerland a couple of years ago. Ergo, a plan was hatched to spend time at Srinagar, followed by a quick dash to Pahalgam and thence to Gulmarg. The security concern in the valley was a factor while planning this visit. It was soon relegated to the lowest priority during the visit. Having visited the valley two decades ago, it was gratifying to see the sheer number of tourists; as per official estimates 1.8 lakhs and increasing by the month. All flights in and out of Srinagar were packed to capacity. Tourist buses and taxis were pouring in along with private cars from various parts of India. 

For the local population, this has provided ample opportunities to rise to the demands of unprecedented pressure on accommodation, transportation, and marketing of their precious wares from the Dal Lake to the dizzy heights of 14000 feet. Let me describe our experience on each of these critical factors that may assist those who are fence-sitters and those who rely only on the Electronic and print media to gauge the mood of the people of Kashmir before finalizing their itinerary.

On paper, there are all kinds of accommodations to suit the purse of tourists from all segments of society. The most expensive 5* hotels were the first to declare “sold out”. At the peak of mid-March to early April one couldn’t get a room even for one night at a princely cost of Rs40000 a night (Excluding GST). However, boutique hotels with limited rooms but with personalized service were available, but by no means at the rates known earlier. Typically, visiting websites with exaggerated colour pictures of boarding and lodging facilities may not be the best option to exercise while booking. Local knowledge and/or consultations with recent visitors are essential to avoid surprises of the unwelcome kind.

An associated factor linked to the availability of suitable accommodation is the oft-repeated question of when you should visit the valley. The short answer is through the year, depending on one’s predilections!  Strictly, the valley at its coldest in December with the heaviest snowfall is avoidable. The famous Tulip Garden is in full bloom only for a month in April. But the beautiful flowers and fruits are best viewed in July/August. If fresh snow is to be experienced, it is after October. Every week after Mid-March the next snowfall would entail proceeding to higher reaches to enjoy the sights of snow peaks. For instance, the second-highest skiing slopes in the world are off Gulmarg-about a two-hour drive from Srinagar. The cable car first takes you to about 10000 feet and to 14000 should you wish to access more snow. In April, the first stage may disappoint those who wish to roll in snow as it starts to rapidly melt. In this case, the second stage becomes a must-see destination.

In terms of organization and facilities, be warned that the mere availability of rooms at the expensive hotels at Gulmarg does not guarantee easy access to the cable car. The peak season implies that the wait at the cable car station in a long winding queue could be as long as 2hours to 3 hours if you are lucky to obtain tickets through the internet. Agents abound, but strict security and safety measures discourage VIPism. There are no small prints that tell you all this. Most tourists exit Gulmarg the same day. Taxis from Srinagar are not permitted to ply in Gulmarg beyond the pickup and drop zone. In brief, there are no local residents at Gulmarg. Tangmarg is the nearest township at the foothills. Unlike in Srinagar where digital money transactions happen, there is a need to use cash at the upper regions of hills-partly due to connectivity and largely due to ignorance among senior citizens of service providers. The new generation is tech-savvy.

Foreign tourists arrive after a fresh snowfall, mainly to ski. In any event at Gulmarg, the existing boarding and lodging infrastructure is very limited to cater to routine Indian tourists. That is likely to change when the new infrastructure plan for Kashmir kicks in. Upgrading tourist infrastructure to meet international standards would go a long way to put Gulmarg on the world map. 

                                                       

Transportation is a critical cog that turns the tourist wagon wheel. Hired cars for city use for quick inter-town visits with a guide are available. However, during the peak season, the traffic is chaotic and palpably dangerous as traffic rules and road discipline are conspicuously absent in their practice. The most sought-after location of the Tulip Garden may take long to access but the pain is soon forgotten when the magnificent burst of colours hit your retina. The redeeming feature may well be loud but musical overtones of the Kashmiri language with little or no threat of a physical confrontation caused by road rage as witnessed in other cities. The only noticeable absence is the products of Mahindra on the roads. Almost all drivers claimed that the extreme winter conditions pose technical problems such as starting- not encountered by other brands.

Handicrafts and weaving skills of the people of Kashmir appear to be intact despite the negative downstream effects of the pandemic and decades of political instability. It would appear that a few good years of tourism and up-gradation of infrastructure along with an economic upturn accompanied by the entry of industry would see the emergence of a new Kashmir. 

Finally, more than staying in a static houseboat with all its novelty, a boat ride on the Dal lake opens an entirely illuminating experience of storytelling, community marketing, exposure to delicate and stunning homemade handicrafts, and insight into the traditions and culture of the valley. Salesmanship using charm, linguistic skills, resilience, and sheer perseverance are on display at all times. A visit is worth more than reading books on sales and marketing. It was exhilarating, invigorating, and breathtaking. “……hameen ast  o hameen ast o hameen ast”. Right?