TADOBA-THE TIGER RESERVE-TIPS FOR TOURISTS
A suggestion too tempting to decline. I had heard about Tadoba Andhari tiger reserve (TATR) just a three-hour drive from Nagpur, the orange city of India. And so, when my daughter-in-law Avantika invited me to join the Bangaras’, off we went.
Much has happened in the tourism sector in India, mainly due to seamless connectivity through air, highways, rail, and inland water infrastructure development.
In 2010, Tadoba had just 3 resorts to accommodate tourists. Today there are over 40 resorts to cater to the wide-ranging budgetary limitations not only of the increasingly peripatetic Indian tourists but also the international demands. From 100 who were employed in the tourism sector here, it has grown to 4000 local stakeholders. From 19 tigers, the 2018 census says they have 106, in an area of around 1726 sq km.
While Google would assist the data-conscious reader, this viewpoint narrative aims to assist the average traveler to configure her travel plans.
Where To Go
As Nagpur is a convenient airport for disembarkation, the tourist has to decide on any or all four zones with multiple gates of entry. Each zone extends from 80 km to 180 km. We opted for Zone 1 i.e., Moharli. The journey of the first 150 km is easily done on a 4-lane highway. The 30 km of the second stretch is narrow and rough. The Toyota Innova is a convenient vehicle for a family + baggage and is included in the all-inclusive package. The Airport is fairly well laid out and is quite convenient for ingress and egress.
On the advice of Sapna who runs a travel agency called Jungle Road, we chose Jungle camp for boarding and lodging.
In the event, we were quite pleased to be located in close proximity to the three Safaris we undertook. Two in daylight and one on a moonless pitch-dark night.
What to see
While the tiger was our priority, the drive of 4 hours through the jungle provides sightings of spotted deer, sambar, bears, crocodiles in lakes, wild dogs, leopards and more. What must be borne in mind is that there is a possibility of not sighting a tiger or a leopard on every safari. Hence, the need to book for three including one night. Flora and fauna are icing on the cake depending on the preference of the tourist.
Our first visit from the Devada gate turned out to be productive from a unique perspective. The specially fitted-out Gypsy with two three-seaters higher than the driver's cabin and open to the environment appears unsafe at first sight. However, we get involved in looking for pugmarks on narrow pathways while on the move. With a bit of training, we too began watching out for pugmarks even as the jeep swayed gently between narrow pathways.
It was on one such stretch that while the tour guide seated in front of the cabin and the driver were sure that a tiger had just crossed, my granddaughter Jahnavi seated in the rear elevated seat, leaned across and whispered that a tiger was seated just where we passed. In the silence that followed the driver began to reverse and there within almost touching distance was this beautiful beast yawning and bored to see these humans who drive around!
It was both exhilarating and scary to see him so close but unmoved by our presence. Cell phones are banned in the jungle and only digital cameras are permitted. The guide knew his name and that he was recently wounded in a leadership fight with another male and was defeated. But a fully fed Tiger is no threat to man or beast and they do not hunt in day time unless it is inevitable. Finally, as we continued to stare in total silence and with the jeep's engine switched off, he gave us another bored look and faded away into the jungle. To top it all no other jeep in the safari sighted a tiger in the 4 hours they had. So round one was won by Jahnavi Bangara.
The second safari at night through Agazari yielded no sighting. But the sheer experience of riding with headlights and stopping to spot wildlife through powerful torches in perfect silence is an experience to cherish. It was freezing, to say the least despite wearing our jackets and blankets provided by the resort. The moonless night sky was full of stars and planets that our new generation hardly gets to see in urban skies. In addition, we needed to be silent to hear the warnings of birds and deer to spot the predator.
Neither the guide nor the driver carries firearms for self defence. That speaks volumes of their knowledge and ability to coexist with wildlife. No different from what was taught to me in the 1950s in coffee estates.
The third safari in day time through the Moharli gate and the core area of the jungle reserve turned out to be the most productive. Despite being a Sunday and with the maximum number of jeeps permissible-all looking for the tiger, one was sighted relaxing after a kill overnight. Quick exchanges of sighting information shared by the guides, led all jeeps to converge on the site. Telescopic lenses and camera shutters were seen and heard all over. People tend to violate the silence mode with excitement or fear. Not a happy sight but the Tiger seemed to ignore it.
Then came the piece de resistance. Since the safari began early in the morning, a breakfast halt with a not hygienic washroom facility was the recommended site. Out came the packed breakfast provided in containers by the resort. The rising sun began to provide warmth after a freezing drive. There were discussions albeit sotto voce, among guides and drivers about the possible sighting of the queen of Tadoba with her cub heading our way.
Then came a proverbial loud bark from a Samba or a barking deer. That was it. Drivers and guides scrambled faster than fighter pilots on interception missions. Many converged to the area and there she was. Having had more litter than normal, she seemed a bit cadaverous or emaciated but in control of the movement of the cub. Mother and cub walked past the line of jeeps while the eager beavers with cameras went berserk. She did not appear to care. In this case, Mankind appeared to be less civilized and caring in comparison. If she had let fly even half a roar the jeeps would have crashed into each other.
That very nearly happened in the next encounter soon. The convoy of jeeps was to split in many directions but was in a column formation when a bear in search of insects and honey emerged from the trees. All jeeps froze for the show of cameras. Out came a telescopic lens trying to get the closest shot. It was evident that the bear just wanted to cross the road. The guides understood his intentions but the column would not move. That is when he let out such a roar that people with cameras must have wished that they had used the washroom a while ago. A sensible driver pulled out of the column to allow the bear to majestically cross the road.
Perhaps a pee-gate story in the making!!
When to visit
Sighting of animals is the objective that underlines a visit to Tadoba. Colourful between February and April. From March to June trees shed their leaves. Increased sighting near waterholes is possible.
July to October is the best, post-monsoon when waterholes and lakes are full.
Carry warm clothes from November.
Happy tours and safaris.
